At this writing, I find myself at the Sea Dragon in the strait between Helsingborg and Elsinore. We had a stormy afternoon with heavy rain and strong winds, the feeling of the salty splash and strong winds are terrific.
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Stepping back aboard Sea Dragon after 5 weeks on shore
It was good to get sailing again, up the coast a few miles from Gothenburg towards a rocky cove near Marstrand, effortless motion in the flat water as the afternoon sea breeze built, followed by a swim in the oddly warm sea.
Read MoreNo Longer At Sea
We disembarked Sea Dragon three days ago, and waved goodbye to the most beautiful of homes. Since then, I have woken religiously in the middle of the night and it’s taken me a good while to realise that no, I am no longer at sea. And with this comes a deep thwack of regret.
Read MoreFollowing The Full Moon Through The Murky Darkness
We’ve had a great few evenings of talks, by the artists on board – chatting, collaborating and showing their work – and Rodrigo and Belinda, sharing their extensive experience around the world filming and researching whales. One of the best things I learnt, which I mused on last night as we followed the full moon through the murky darkness, was that humpback whales may navigate by the moon…
Read MoreThe Oil Fields of the North Sea
We could be the last people on earth, if it weren’t for the fact that we are passing through the oil fields of the North Sea, and strange alien like constructions breach the horizon where a few days ago we hoped to see whales. The first rig I saw was named ‘Heather’. Orbited by the lights of protective supply ships, fire spurted from her innards, like dragons nesting.
Read MoreThe Faroe Islands: Reflections from the Crew
“A distillation of all the magical notions I had conjured up for myself about this area of the world.”
Read MoreWhale Watching Outside the Faroe Islands
Last night at about 7:30 pm, when we most needed a boost, the whales heard our plea and we were joined by a pod of over 25 pilot whales and a group of dolphins. For about an hour, they followed alongside the boat, coming right up next to us and swimming around the bow. When we finally sped up at the end, they steamed after us jumping through the waves trying to catch up. For me, and for many others on the crew, it was totally magical. I had expected it to be amazing, but not quite to the extent that it was.
Read MoreWatching The Colors Change On The Waves
It’s humbling when you have the opportunity, like we all do on this boat, to learn a little more about such highly intelligent creatures, occupying a space completely uninhabitable to us.
Read More36 Hours at Sea
The sea goes from deep blue, to silver to gold, depending on the sun. The sky has stayed clear. It feels altogether magical and, punctuated by volcanic islands and swooping seabirds, our watches are no hardship. Armed with sunglasses and cups of tea, it is possible to sit on deck for hours, basking in the sunlight. The only difficulty is forcing ourselves to sleep – none of us want to retreat back down to our bunks when the weather is so glorious.
Read MoreBright Icelandic Colours
I am excited to envisage on paper the experience of being on the ocean, with no land in sight. It’s a new thing for me, to embark on this kind of expedition, and I want to try to get the feeling down in pencil and paint – the raw wilderness surrounding us on all sides.
Read MoreThe Wild Earth
Here, where the wilderness shouts so very loudly, words seem quieter somehow. Less important. I can imagine my own melting away, driven by the sound of the wind and rock. In Helen’s maps though, her collections of words and drawings are the anchors that connect place to place, person to person, creature to creature. Sea shanties from an Icelandic village are tied, across an ocean, to perhaps a Faroese folk chant or a viking childrens’ tale.
Read MoreGreetings from Iceland
For us, and our small team of emerging artists, it won’t be plastic but rather whales and dolphins that will be our watchwords. But, one cannot help bleeding into the other. As more whales wash up on beaches with stomachs full of plastic, how not to feel the weight of Sea Dragon’s most recent research as we gaze across the bright blue sea?
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